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EXCLUSIVE: within Lady Gaga’s American fear Story costume cupboard

Emmy Award-winning costume designer Lou Eyrich talks solely to GRAZIA around the making of Gaga’s The Countess


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As the 13 episode, 5th instalment the the Emmy and gold Globe-winning franchise, American fear Story: Hotel ventures into The Cortez, an notorious Los Angeles hotel run by The Countess played by Lady Gaga. The costuming notes stand together dramatic but not distracting and vintage yet still modern, a an obstacle for Emmy Award-winning costume designer Lou Eyrich (of Scream majesties and Glee fame). In an exclude, interview v GRAZIA, Eyrich talks about Gaga’s specific an imaginative input into everything she wears, the remaking of clothes – consisting of that gloves – article bloody scenes and also all the designers; Gaultier, Westwood, Fendi, Ford, Choo and Prada.

You are watching: The countess ahs costume

American horror Story: Hotel is the end on Blu-ray and also DVD ~ above October 6.

How do you begin designing the iconic looks of a character like The Countess?

“When we an initial get a manuscript from Ryan Murphy, he usually sets the tone and tells us what he wants. So because that Lady Gaga, he said, ‘I desire her timeless,’ so she could wear every little thing from victorian to contemporary day, however he was really wanting a 30s, old Hollywood glamour, prefer Adrienne, who was a huge designer that the 20s, 30s, 40s. Yet then, make it an ext modern. We shop vintage, we shop new. If it’s vintage, we add brand-new accessories to do it a little an ext present day. Like, The Countess simply pulls from she closet from a 100 years’ worth. Wouldn’t the be awesome?

“Then we go into sketching and we show Ryan. There are so plenty of neutral tones in this set, we invest a the majority of time v The Countess in her bedroom and also her penthouse. Therefore we want to carry colour come it therefore she would pop in there, or put her in every white therefore it’s really dramatic. Once Ryan signs off top top these, then us send them to Gaga and she weighs in ~ above it. We style most the the garments so they deserve to be a fast build, just in case, because there’s a lot of blood top top the present if haven’t noticed! . For this reason we need multiples!”

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Credit: twenty Century Fox

If you obtain blood on a costume, execute you to wash it out and also re-take in it?

“Once we usage a costume, us don’t re-use it.”

How much an innovative input does Lady Gaga have?

“She coordinates with us quite a bit. In the beginning, Ryan always gets the last say. Yet she had actually done her work when she started on this. And also because it was her big acting debut, she really want to get it tight. For this reason she pretty lot knew that The Countess was, and she and also Ryan had actually a the majority of dialogue as well. She watched a lot of old vampire movies, she already knew she lines, so the made it yes, really easy. Us both were on the same page and also really came together on it.

“I think the most necessary thing to be to do The Countess be timeless, to be able to wear any decade, but also be an extremely refined and also clean and also not enter the Gaga world. She acquired to feel prefer The Countess.

“When Gaga walked onto the set, she to be The Countess, no Gaga”

“When you walk into her closet, you find a the majority of gowns, interlocutor colours, neutrals, but likewise a lot of sparkle yet its al high glamour.”

The vintage pieces can’t get blood on them though, can they?

“Correct. There is a genuine trick to gaining blood the end of apparel in the event something happens. Usually through Gaga, we need to use CGI blood because that whoever she’s killing or she needs to jump the end of the way. It’s only happened once where a custom-made piece was blood-soaked. We had actually to hand-wash it and they couldn’t shooting the next scene due to the fact that it had acquired so bloody. It all ended up coming out and also they were able to shoot the following day.

That’s a the majority of responsibility!

“We all gasped. It to be a US$3000 dress! Each glove that she put on is around US$2500 and the lengthy ones space US$4000 a piece.”

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Credit: twenty Century Fox

Are designers pretty willing to loan apparel to the show?

“Yeah. Ns mean, it’s harder with television. They love to loan for editorials. In TV, we need to hold pieces until the display is locked (meaning it’s gone v post, it’s cut and also its ready to go to air) in case they need to insert a shoot or it to be blurry or there was a hair top top the lens, or wherever. So us do have to hold onto part pieces because that while a when so that does limit that will loan.”

Did you uncover that an ext designers were willing to lend their points this year since it was Lady Gaga wearing them?

“Yes!

Can you name several of the designers?

“Yohji Yamamoto, Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, DSquared2, Ferretti, Fendi, Tom Ford.”

Any McQueen?

“Yes! over there were several McQueens.

“Gaga has an individual archives that she’s been loaning come us, and there was a gorgeous McQueen.”

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Credit: twentieth Century Fox

When you were coming up through The Countess’ glove, exactly how much to be Ryan involved?

“The gloves was Ryan’s idea. Designer Daphne Guinness has actually an armoured glove that Ryan wanted us to use yet we couldn’t purchased it, and there’s only one so us basically supplied it as our inspiration however came up v out very own design, out of respect to her and her designers.”

How long did it take to make the gloves?

“Well it would certainly take lock weeks however we’ve made them make them in days, because we’ll not have the time. We’ll gain a script and be like, ‘Oh god, we’re going to require doubles on the silver glove, because its going to obtain all bloody!’ Or a stunt double wears one.”

What room the gloves made of?

“It’s around 10,000 Swarovski crystals. Swarovski donated every one of these crystals. And also then he tradition carves every one of the filigree and also dips it in gold.”

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Credit: twenty Century Fox

Tell me about The Countess’ shoes.

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“The shoes space all at least five inches. We use a lot of Manolo, Yves Saint Laurent, Aaliyah, Jimmy Choo and Prada. We don’t have too numerous Laboutins. No Aldo in the house!

Will developers loan these as well?

“A most them will, definitely. And Gaga’s a sample dimension so we have actually a most offers.

Let’s talk accessories…

“We use a most hats, a tonne that jewellery and a the majority of rhinestones. There’s a couple of areas in town that specialise in loaning jewellery and we hit increase a lot of costume houses. Gaga generally loves to just wear small studs. Since there’s so lot going on everywhere else, it often tends to pull focus if there’s diamonds moving around.”

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Credit: twentieth Century Fox

Are you working your dream job? and also how go this collection compare to her time ~ above Scream Queens and also Glee?

“All of Ryan’s tasks are dream jobs. He’s always pushing the envelope and pushing me creatively. Glee driven me, Scream Queens thrust me. He desires to develop iconic characters and also iconic costumes and also it’s like, ‘Hey, no pressure!’. I’ve really took pleasure in working v Lady Gaga and also this level of glamour.”

What is Gaga prefer to work-related with?

“What i love is she really amazes me. She comes prepared, she knows the scene. I’ll say, ‘I to be thinking about this cape, due to the fact that of the colour in the room,” or whatever. And she’ll have actually a thought around it and also will say, “I prefer the cape, but I want to play it prefer this and so I’m reasoning something not so showy, possibly a little much more subdued, so the emphasis is on me yes, really grieving.’ so she’s assumed it through. Or she might say, ‘Yes! That’s perfect.’ It’s totally a collaboration. It’s never, ‘I don’t want to undertake this,’ It’s so easy, ns love it.”